The Golden Hour

The aperitivo board, out of three jars.

Italy's best institution is the hour before dinner, and it runs on jars exactly like these: the farm's sun-dried tomatoes in their own good oil, slow onions carried by truffle, and a chilli paté where the heat rides over the depth.

The board builds itself — bread, whatever cheese the house holds, and these three, opened. The sun-dried tomatoes' oil goes on the bread; the relish goes first.

It is the Host's gift, and the party's: the box that gets opened while everyone is still standing.